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Monday, 23 January 2012
MEXICAN POSTSCRIPT As some of you would be aware, I recently returned from a 5 month trip to the U.S. and Mexico. I drove down to the Mexican mainland from San Diego California via Arizona and the Sonora desert in my 1971 VW Kombi. I was travelling with Eric Erickson, an old surfing friend from Central Calif. We had 10 boards between us. Some highlights. # Surfing perfect headhigh machine like quality lefts at Aticama with only Eric and I in the water. # Near perfect double overhead 200 yard long lefts at Santa Cruz with very minimal crowd. # Pumping double overhead+ rights at Pascuales.....a super heavy beach break in the state of Colima. # Perfect triple overhead 300 yard long lefts at Rio Nexpa with only 4 in the water. I've surfed Nexpa when it was really huge on a previous trip and its a truly outstanding wave. On this ocassion, it was in between glassy and just slightly offshore with not a drop of water out of place. Its a cobblestone bottom pointbreak that can be like a machine in the right conditions. Its like a mixture of North Narrabeen and Ujung Bocur, the left at Freeline's South Sumatra land camp. On the way back up the coast we stopped in at Pascuales again. It was huge, 5 times overhead plus with some perfect rights which were shifting around dangerously on the bank. I'd twisted my back on the last day at Nexpa and was in two minds about paddling out on my 8'5". We watched a mate of mine, Alan Cleland, a fantastic American surfer who lives at Pascuales struggling for ages to get into position, and I stayed on the beach. A couple of jet ski's were towing in (cheating) and making it real hard for Alan who was paddling. New school versus old school. We met some really nice people down there like Karen and Bryce from Tofino in Canada. This couple surf year round in freezing water up north where there can even be snow on the beach. They were loving the 30 degree Mexican water and we had some really good surfs and dinners together. The local people were also super friendly, frequently going out of their way to assist us. In terms of personal safety it was sketchy. Lots of guns down there and people prepared to use them. Not suprisingly there was a huge military presence on the roads and in towns, with troops using balaclavas or full face paint and carrying machine guns and plenty of checkpoints/roadblocks. We camped out from time to time but did not travel at night. However apart from being hammered by a category 4 hurricane for a few days on the way down, we had no trouble. The VW did its thing and apart from a faulty starter motor early on and a broken clutch cable on the way home, the 6,000 mile roundtrip passed smoothly. My VW is now back in storage on Tim's property in San Diego waiting for the next trip. I was really happy with the way my boards worked. I mostly rode either a 7'0" rounded pintail Semi-Gun or a 7'6" pintail Gun. These boards were perfect for early entry into powerful waves and then for driving on down the line. These are the same types of boards I build for bigger waves at Narrabeen and for Indonesia. CURRENT Apart from last Wednesday when Narrabeen was really pumping, the surf has been very marginal since my return. After coming down from the trip I've been catching up with some overdue projects and working on my house and garden on the Northern Beaches in Sydney. I also did a quick trip to the NSW South Coast and scored good waves at a couple of spots. I have no plans to begin shaping again just yet. However having said that, I am doing some design work with quads in the F-SKATE and V-SKATE and also in relation to fin positions and rockers with all the other models. Before ceasing production last year I shaped a whole series of F-SKATES, V-SKATES, Semi-Guns and Guns with various modifications in each of them. I've been running these boards through their paces since then in different conditions and will incorporate the accumulated data into your boards when I resume shaping. Other than that, I'm really enjoying being off schedule, being in the moment and surfing as much as I can. I appreciate the many emails of support and thanks from existing clients which I have received during my time away. Also, quite often someone will paddle up to me in the water to say hi and maybe have a quick rapp about their boards. Since surfing and shaping are such a big part of my life, it really heartens me to be reminded that there are so many stoked surfers out there on Miller Surfboards. With thanks. Grant Miller.
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